Reuse Your Wrapping Paper

Did everyone have a fantastic weekend?  I know I did.  I ate way too much and had such fun time with family!  Are you one of those that saves all your wrapping paper or do you trash/recycle it?  All mine usually gets recycled, but if you want to keep it this time, here are a few ideas for you:



How to make Paper from B Zedan.

Shredded paper picture from Jesse James.

Sort it into similar colors and put through your paper shredder for gift packing.

Let your kids use it for making collages.  You know Valentine's day is coming up.  Cut the red and white paper into small, unidentifiable pieces and they'll never know that there were penguins on the paper!

Use it as packaging for your Christmas decorations.

Do you have anything special you do with your wrapping paper leftovers?

How To: Touch up Furniture

If you're like pretty much any household, your wood furniture takes quite a beating.  Our dining room set has moved with us 3 times and been part of our family for close to 7 years.  That being said, it has taken its fair share of scratches.  I'll show you how to easily touch up those scratches!

You don't even need those expensive "wood touch up" markers either!  Find a permanent marker with a color similar to your wood finish.  A Sharpie or Copic marker works great!  It just has to be a similar color, not an exact match!



This is my chair before the touch up, pretty bad, huh?



Color your scratches away!  I usually do a little bit at a time and before the marker is dry, use a rag (or finger) to rub in the color.  This helps it blend in better with your actual wood instead of looking like it was just colored in.



My "new" chair!  Told you it was easy!

Drapes-To Line or Not to Line

I recently was talking with someone about their window treatments.  (They are sewing some new ones themselves and wanted to know if they should pay the extra money and time to line them.)  Most designers will tell you to line everything!  I don't necessarily believe this, so here's what I look at when deciding whether or not to line.

Let's talk first about why you'd want to line them.  There are multiple reasons to line those drapes:

-To give your drapes body so that they'll drape nicely instead of look limp

-To look consistent from the exterior of your home.  Imagine standing outside the front of your house and seeing the back of all your different colored curtains...doesn't look very good, does it?

-To protect some fibers, such as silk and linen, from the sun.  These materials can be broken down by constant sunlight.

{Drapes from West Elm}

So how do you decide?  Look at the material your using for your drapes.  Is it thick?  Is it thin?  Is it neutral colored, or did you choose some bold colors or patterns?

For light to medium weight fabrics of a neutral color I'd opt to keep them unlined for a more airy feel.  (Although lining them is just fine too.)

For light to medium weight fabrics with a bold color or pattern, I'd definitely line them.  It helps to see the pattern better on the inside, and keep things nice looking from the outside as well.

For heavy material of any color I'd look at the back.  Does the pattern show through on the back or not?  If you don't like the look of the back of the material then I'd line them in a lightweight lining.  Heavy materials usually have enough body on their own drape well.

A lot of it really has to do with the look you're going for!

How To: Etched Dinner Glasses

I made these as a gift this weekend, and let me tell you, it was easy and they came out looking so fantastic!!  Everything to make the glasses will set you back around $10 (with your Michael's coupon), and that includes the glasses!

Supplies You'll need:

Dinner glasses.  I got 2 sets of 4 for 2.39 at Target.  $4.78 Spent

Glass Etching Cream.  Even though 3 oz doesn't seem like a lot, I used less than half a bottle for all 8 glasses!  Around $8.  (If you use a coupon from Michaels you can get it at 40% off!)

Contact paper/Vinyl/Stickers etc.  Any of these will work to make your pattern with for etching.  Want to stick with stripes?  That's easy too, just use tape!  (price varies)

Foam Brush

Directions:

Wash and dry your glasses so you have a clean surface to etch.



Lay out the shapes you'd like to etch and adhere them to the glass.  I made the shape I used in Illustrator and then had my Cricut cut it out for me.  (Here are the shapes waiting for the etching cream.)



Paint a heavy coat of the etching cream on the glass and let it sit.  I usually do 2 at a time.  You don't have to let it sit very long, usually just 4-6 minutes.  (Don't forget to place some old newspapers or a plastic bag on your work surface to protect it from the etching cream.  Also, please work in a well ventilated area, this stuff is dangerous if used in a closed, un-ventilated space.  We want you to be safe!!)

Rinse off the glasses and remove your stickers.  (I like to make my etching cream last as long as possible so right before I rinse my project I use my brush to scrape off as much of the etching cream as possible and put it back in my container.)  Let dry, and you've got fabulous new glasses!

July 4th Place Setting Pattern

Remember the project I completed for BurdaStyle for Mother's Day?  They asked me to complete some modifications to make it work for your July 4th get together!  You can see the full project tutorial and instructions with pictures on BurdaStyle here, here, and here!  (Did I mention it's a free pattern?)

Happy Memorial Day

We'll be taking time today to honor those that have served and continue to serve our country!  We hope you'll do the same!  I'm loving these simple, inexpensive, party ideas from Mark Montano:



You can check out the tutorial at Mark's blog.

and 

Determining a Rug Size for your Living Room

We get asked this question a lot:  How do I decide what is the correct rug size I need for my space?  Today we'll help you out!

Rugs are usually specified to help pull a furniture arrangement together.  Many times, without something visual to pull everything together, furniture can look like it is placed haphazardly around the room.  (Even if there is some organization to it.)  I find that when choosing a rug size you want one that will just cover the space underneath your furniture arrangement.  Don't worry about all of your furniture fitting on the rug, just make sure that the front of the sofa and chairs are on the rug and you'll be fine!  It's always better to go larger than smaller if you're unsure about the size.

Are you visual like me?  Here are some examples of some good sized rugs and not-so-good sized rugs:





Notice how in the two examples above the rug really helps to make the arrangement feel like one large, well-placed, arrangement.

See how in the bad example the rug is too small?  Instead of pulling the arrangement together you've added something else that just clutters up the visual space.  A well sized rug will help to provide a more cohesive look.

Good luck with your rug hunting!

Tips on finding a Focal Point

Being a designer I appreciate that having a focal point is a huge thing in every space!  Focal points can also be seen on a much smaller scale.  Here are some examples of focal points on a smaller scale and why they work:

This bookcase arrangement is a great example of a focal point!  I love how the smaller shelving unit in the middle really draws your eye in while being balanced by the larger ones on either side!  {Photo from The Day Has Come}

Bet you can't find the focal point on the sofa?  Ok, so maybe this was a little too easy, but see how just that one pillow really draws your eye into the space and begs to be looked at?  {Photo from AdventureDiva}

See how the center framed photo is larger than the rest?  This provides a clear focal point to the wall!  {Photo from Blossom Interiors}

Think about the space you're currently working on and see if it needs a focal point.  It's an easy way to fix your space and make it look fabulous!

How To: Select carpet like a Pro

Go into any flooring store and you'll easily be overwhelmed by the many different types of carpets available.  How do you decide which type of carpet will work best for your space?  Start by asking yourself these questions:

-What type of space is getting the new carpet?  Is it a space that is frequently used, a high traffic area, or one rarely lived in.

-What type of surface is the carpet being applied to?  The concrete foundation?  Maybe it's on the 2nd Floor and will be applied to a plywood substrate?  These things can make a difference when deciding what type of backing for your carpet to use.

-How much time do you have for maintenance?  Some carpets require different types of cleaning.

With the answers to these questions in mind you'll be ready to select your carpet.  The first type of carpet that I'll share with you today is Nylon carpet.

Nylon carpet is the most widely used in residential.  This type of carpet is dyed after production and is available in a wide range of colors and patterns.  It's durable and resists crushing.  (You know...what happens after you've walked the same path on the carpet for a while and it starts to crush the fibers and looks like a trail?)  Nylon carpet is fairly easy to clean, and usually a yearly maintenance with a carpet cleaner is all that's required to keep it looking good!  Here are some of my favorite nylon carpets:

{Ethan's Dream from Shaw Carpet}

{Casco Carpet from the Angela Adams collection for Shaw Contract}

Don't be afraid of patterned carpets either!  When you're looking at carpets, place them on the ground and step back 10' or so and look at it.  Many times when you step back the carpets with smaller patterns will disappear.  It looks like a solid color, but because it has some variation, allows for little spots to not show up as well.  They become camouflauged in the variation of the yarn colors.

Patterned Carpet up Close

Patterned carpet installed

{These Dreams from Shaw Carpet}

Tip#2: Displaying your collection

Remember Tip #1?  What if just a consistent layout line isn't enough?  Have lots of different images, color, black and white, things that don't necessarily go together?  Frame them in the same frames, or different frames and use the same mat color.  You'll create the consistency you need and allow your collected items to shine through!

(Frames Courtesy of West Elm)

How to Pick the Right Sized Wreath

Remember Deb's wreath she showed us how to make?  Isn't it just gorgeous?

I get questions from time to time about choosing the right sized wreath.  Many people aren't sure what size wreath would work well for their door.

When choosing a correctly sized wreath it's all about proportion.  Look for a wreath that takes up about 2/3 of your space.  If your door is 36" wide, then look for a wreath that's 24" in diameter.  If it's a 30" door, find a wreath that's 20" in diameter.  Use the same math for hanging a wreath above a fireplace too!

*Designer Tip:  Think of unconventional places to use wreaths.  I usually have one hanging on my pantry door in the kitchen.  Try a linen closet door, or even a bedroom door.  If you're using them for a decoration inside, play with the scale a little bit.  I love this miniature DIY wreath from Women's Day or the Feather Wreath from Martha Stewart.

Do you have any special wreath projects you'd like to share?  Contact us!

How to Pick A Grout Color

I get asked quite a bit how I pick a grout color for tile projects.  There are many factors to consider and when a tile is mottled or includes multiple colors it makes it a little more difficult.  So how do I pick which color of grout to go with my tile?  Hopefully this little post will help you make your own decisions when it comes time for your own tile project!

Before you even look at grout colors decide this:  Do you want your tile to appear seamless or to look more like a checkerboard?  Either have a place in your design and are fine but the aesthetics of it are up to you.

I'm going to use the Fidenza Porcelain Tile from Daltile to show you.

The lighter grout gives it a checkerboard effect, which is perfectly fine if that's what you'd like, although keep in mind that white grout should only be used with white tile.  Any other tile color and the white will be too stark.  White grout should be used sparingly as it is extremely difficult to keep clean for long periods, and is also more prone to yellowing over time.  (Take a look at some of the public restrooms you use.  You'll notice that if they have white tile they may have used white grout on the walls, but the floors are almost always a grey grout with the white tile.  Designers figure that it's going to turn grey anyway so we'll go ahead and specify it grey.)

Remember that not too much of your grout will show and that you want to highlight the tile, not the grout!  Grout also dries a little darker than when you apply it.  I hope with these simple tips you'll be able to make your own decisions on grout color!

Preparing Your House for Winter

Ready to pull out the fall decor?  Before you do, be sure to prepare you home for winter!

by cwalker71

Don't forget:

-Change your air filters to make sure your system working properly for the winter.  Also consider having an licensed technician check your unit.  Having the heat break down in the middle of a cold spell isn't fun for anyone, and may cost you more to have someone come look at it!

-Consider changing out light bulbs for the more energy efficient compact fluorescent.  You'll be happy that you're saving money and your husband will be happy because he doesn't have to get the ladder out to change them as often!

-Check the weather stripping around your doors.  This is easy to replace if missing or damaged and cuts down on those cold drafts!

-Get chimney cleaned to reduce the probability of a fire.

-Test all fire detectors and carbon monoxide detectors-replacing the batteries if needed.

What do you do every fall to prepare for winter?

Quick Stain Removal Guide

Now that the children are back in school you can't be there to change their clothing as soon as a stain happens.  Here are a few reminders for easily removing various stains.

Ink: Use hairspray.  You probably have that right?  The alcohol in the spray helps to break up the ink.  Just spray and let it sit, the spray again.  Repeat this until the ink is gone.  Then wash it out with your regular detergent.

Fruit Juice: Make a paste with cream of tarter and warm water and spread on the stain.  Let it sit for 1/2 to 1 hour and then rinse and wash regularily with your other laundry.

Oil: Scrub some dishwasher detergent on the oil spot and let it sit for a little bit.  Wash in warm water as normal.

Crayon (or melted crayon from those ones that accidentally stayed in someone's pocket): Place the item in the freezer until the crayon is hard and brittle.  Shatter and shake off the excess.  Sponge the excess with a spot stain remover and you're good to go!

Do you have a special remedy you'd like to share?  Be sure to leave us a comment!

Slipcover Dilemma

One of our readers Christy wrote us with the following dilemma:

"My couches are nasty but not nasty enough to get rid of--especially with my kids!  I'd like to have some slipcovers that I can wash but I'm overwhelmed by what is available.  I can handle something DIY but I want them to be snug and not look like, well, slipcovers.  Am I asking for the impossible here?  What do you think?"

Christy is right, there are lots of slipcovers out there that scream "I'm a slipcover!"  The main reason they look like this is due to the fact that sofas come in many sizes, shapes, and styles and the slipcover manufacturer must make their slipcovers to fit as many sofas as possible.  This tends to have features like bunched fabric, extra fabric, or skirts that are too long or too short.  (Good thing apparel manufacturers don't try to do the same thing!)

Christy, good news is, if you know your way around a sewing machine you can essentially make your own pattern with a little effort.  I just finished helping one of my clients do the exact same thing.  While I didn't sew them myself I worked with my workroom to make sure they were fitted, and not more of the drape and tie type of slipcover.  I watched her very carefully during the process so I could make my own later, and share with you how it's done.

Things you'll need to make the pattern:

1 bolt muslin fabric

Lots of pins

Pinking Shears

You'll want to start off with the bolt of muslin.  (Sometimes I'll go straight to working on the pattern with the final fabric to be used, but since upholstery fabric can get expensive, and, depending on the design of your sofa you'll need 10-15 yards of fabric we'll use inexpensive muslin to create the pattern and then cut out the final pieces with your fabric.)

If your cushions are removable, go ahead and remove them so you have the basic shape of your sofa.  Lay a large piece of fabric down on the sofa seat.  (It's called the deck without the cushions there.)  Cut out the exact shape leaving 1/2" extra fabric around all the edges.  Continue to cut the pieces out by draping the fabric, trimming, and then pin together.  You're essentially putting the pattern together right there on your sofa.  If you're having trouble figuring out where to cut the pieces and make seams, just look at how your current sofa is upholstered, and anywhere there's a seam, you know that you will also need a seam there.

After you've got the sofa pattern completed, make separate templates using your cushions.  If the seat cushions are all the same size, just do one template and use it for all of them.  Do the same for the back cushions.

When you've got your pattern made you're practically there!  Be sure to prewash the upholstery fabric you're using first.  We wouldn't want to sew the entire slipcover, and then have it shrink on us!!

Remove all the pins from your pieced pattern (be sure you number or label them to keep then straight!) and lay them out on your final fabric.  Cut the pieces out and sew together.  Remember to match patterns if your upholstery fabric has a pattern to it.  If you're using a suede or other fabric with nap, keep that in mind as you cut out the pieces too.  (For good instructions on the order in which to sew everything see here.)

Sew your cushion covers and place on your sofa!  You just made a custom fitted slipcover!!

Be sure you keep your muslin pieces so you can sew different slipcovers later!

Reading Fabric Labels-The Beginning

Here on Fresh Nest Design we love giving you the tools to be your own designer because that's what we're all about!  Part of that is making sure you know what goes into choosing durable fabrics so that you can make your own informed decisions!  I won't talk much about choosing color schemes this time.  (Probably in the near future though!)  If you look at a fabric label you'll see much more information than just the name of the pattern and the color.  But how do you decode everything else that's on there?

This label has lots of important information on there and we'll try to sort through it all in the next few weeks so you can ALL be experts!  What do they mean when they reference double rubs?  Well hopefully I can help a little!  And if you have any questions please feel free to ask them in the comments and I'll answer then for you!  If there's enough questions about different things I'll do a separate post.

The double rubs refer to a test where a special machine is utilized and a pad is rubbed back and forth over the surface of the fabric multiple times.  This is done until a hole is worn through the fabric.

If it takes 25,000 rubs to make a hole than the fabric is labeled that it is durable to 25,000 double rubs.  Some fabrics are rated for 100,000 to 200,000 double rubs!  When compared to that amount, it seems like a 25,000 double rub fabric is not so durable, but in fact, 25,000 is perfectly fine for most residential applications.

Most of the ones rated higher than say, about 50,000, are for commercial use.  When I design emergency rooms and I'm looking at the fabric labels to see what is safe to use on the chairs there, 50,000 is plenty for that application.  (And emergency room fabrics get TONS of abuse and are used 24/7!)

If you're ordering a sofa and getting custom fabric from a furniture store this information might not be in plain sight.  You may have to ask the sales associate to do a little more work and find out the information for you!  But it will help that you can make a more informed decision about the fabric you're choosing!  I hope this has been helpful and remember, if there's any questions be sure to ask them in the comments!

Monday Redesign- Cara's Kitchen Window

Remember Cara's window?  She wanted something to accent her light fixture and lighten up the room, but block the sun when needed as well.   I decided to give a couple options-- both of which are great fabrics.  Here are my options below:

Window treatments can be difficult to choose from as there are so many different styles.  Cara is great on the sewing machine so I thought Roman shades would be a great fit for her.  They are wonderful at dressing up a space and are easy to pull up and down. Here is a great step by step tutorial on how to make your own Roman Shades {via Martha Stewart}.  When buying the fabric to make roman shades, add 4 inches to the width and 8 1/2 inches to the length.  {Cara's window is 35" x 47" so she would need 39 x 55 1/2" or 43" x 51", if the fabric can be turned on its side}.

The first fabric I choose is from Cicada Studio and is called Queen Anne's Lace.  I love this fabric and thought it would be a great fit for Cara's style.  I also love the freshness it brings into the room, as well as color.  It is a durable fabric that drapes nicely and is made of 50% Linen; 50% Cotton. {Cost: $68 for 54"x 36"}

The second fabric I choose is Maime Bamboo Thatch from ReproDepot.com and is a more budget friendly option.  It has a great color pop and is very budget friendly.  It is 100% Cotton and may need some backing so that it's more durable and lays right. {Cost: $7.50 for 44"x 36"}

Cara, I really enjoyed redesigning the window treatments for your kitchen. 

I am curious, dear readers, which fabric do you like better?



Interested in having your space redesigned?  Click here.